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Facts You Should Recognize On Perfume

Perfume (Latin “per fume” meaning “through smoke”) was highly favored by the Egyptians, Romans, and Arabs. In East Asia, perfumes were incense based. People used to formulate perfumes from spices and herbs like bergamot, myrtle, coriander, conifer resin, and almond. The use of flowers came only after Avicenna, an Iranian doctor and chemist showed the process of distillation, whereby oils could be extracted from flowers. In 1370, at the behest of Queen Elizabeth of Hungary, the world’s first modern parfum – “Hungary Water” was made by blending scented oils in alcohol solution.

The arrangement of a perfume is of vital impact and is handled by an expert known as a perfumer, who deals with primary scents like rose, jasmine, cola, etc; modifiers like esters; blenders like linalool and hydroxycitronellol; and fixatives like resins, wood scents, and amber bases. The resulting parfum murah is explained in a musical metaphor of three ‘notes’, namely, top notes (consisting of fast evaporating small size molecules) like citrus and ginger scents; middle notes (consisting of slow evaporating medium size molecules) like lavender and rose scents; and base notes (consisting of slowest evaporating largest size molecules) like fixatives etc. All these notes work at the same time like a musical chord.

Perfume oils contain volatile compounds in high concentrations and thus have to be diluted by solvents, so that injury is not caused when applied directly on skin or clothes. The common solvent is pure ethanol or ethanol mixed with water. Fractionated coconut oil or wax, neutral smelling fats such as jojoba, can also act as solvents and dilute the perfume oil. The perfume oil is further mixed with other aromatic compounds. Generally, the percentage of aromatic compounds in perfume extract is 20% to 40%; in eau de parfum is 10% to 30%; in eau de toilette is 5% to 20%; and in eau de cologne is 2% to 5%.

The oil concentration in a parfum online along with other aromatic compounds, determines the intensity, longevity, and price of the perfume and thus it is a closely guarded secret of every perfumer and perfume house. By adjusting the proportion level and the notes of the perfume, variations on the same brand may be created like Chanel’s Pour Monsieur and Pour Monsieur Concentree.

Classification of perfumes is never complete, due to its ever-evolving nature. The traditional classification comprises of categories like Single Floral, Floral Bouquet, Ambery, Woody, Leather, Chypre, and Fougere; while the modern classification comprises of Bright Floral, Green, Oceanic/Ozone, Citrus/Fruity, and Gourmand. In 1983, Michael Edwards, a perfume consultant, created a new fragrance classification “The Fragrance Wheel”, which classified and sub-grouped five standard families, namely Floral (Floral, Soft Floral, Floral Oriental), Oriental (Soft Oriental, Oriental, Woody Oriental), Woody (Wood, Mossy Woods, Dry Woods), Fougere (has fragrance elements from all the families), and Fresh (Citrus, Green, Water).

Perfumery has used a number of aromatic sources like plants, animals, and synthetic sources in the making of perfumes. Plants are used as a source of aroma compounds and essential oils. The parts of plants that are used are:

1 – Bark (cinnamon, cascarilla);
2 – Flowers (rose, jasmine, osmanthus, tuberose, mimosa, vanilla);
3 – Blossoms (citrus, ylang-ylang, clove);
4 – Fruits (apples, strawberries, cherries, litsea cubeba, juniper berry, vanilla, oranges, lemons, limes, grapefruit);
5 – Leaves and Twigs (lavender, patchouli, citrus, violets, sage, rosemary, hay, tomato);
6 – Resins (labdanum, myrrh, gum benzoin, Peru balsam, frankincense/olibanum, pine, fir, amber, copal);
7 – Roots, Bulbs, and Rhizomes (vetiver roots, ginger and iris rhizomes);
8 – Seeds (coriander, cocoa, mace, cardamom, anise, nutmeg, caraway, tonka bean);
9 – Woods (agarwood, birch, rosewood, sandalwood, pine, birch, juniper, cedar).

Animal sources include Ambergris, Castoreum, Musk, Rom terpenes, Honeycomb, and Civet. Other natural sources include Lichens and Protists. Synthetic sources include synthetic odorants synthesized from petroleum distillates, pine resins, etc. Modern perfumes are mostly made from synthetic sources as they allow fragrances not found in nature, like Calone is a synthetic compound that imparts a marine metallic ozonous fragrance. Synthetic aromatics are more dependable than natural aromatics, and are hence, widely used in our time in modern available perfumes.

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Posted in Beauty · February 9th, 2010 · Comments (0)

Functional Tips On Choosing The Correct Perfume

Perfume is considered to be one of the most must-haves for any status-conscious person in any society. Initially, it was being used by the upper-class society as a high-end accessory; but, later it became available even to the most common person in the society. In the modern age, the use of perfume has become virtually indispensable as it potentially adds to the behavior of a person.

The history and background of parfum can be traced back to the ancient times of Egypt. The word `Perfume` has been coined by the combination of two Latin words such as `Per` (Through) and `Fume` (Smoke). The art of making perfumes took place in ancient Egypt but it was the Romans and the Arabs who improved it subsequently. There are many procedures being followed these days for making the modern perfumes but the most general process is extracting oils from flowers by distillation which was introduced by an Iranian doctor named Avicenna.

Usually, the precise formulae of making parfum asli and fragrances are kept confidential by the designer houses; however, some perfume specialists are skilled enough to identify the ingredients, components and origins of the perfume and scents. At the present day, France is dominating the European perfume design and trade industry, and the `Perfumery` has turn out to be one of the most potentially commercial businesses in the world.

How to pick the right perfume?

Choosing the right perfume and fragrance has become increasingly tricky for the customers as the cosmetic market is being invaded by numerous new parfum online and scent brands each and every day. Now a days, perfumes and fragrances can be found in diverse flavors and ingredients. They are being manufactured and offered in bottles of different shapes and sizes according to the needs of the targeted customers. While visiting a cosmetic store, a customer often gets confused about what could be the right one for him/her. However, there are some guidelines if followed can help those confused customers remove their doubts and select the right perfume for them.

They are as follows:

Skin:

Try different perfumes and fragrances to know what suits your skin the best. No two perfumes are alike in fragrance, flavor and smell. Hence what suits the most, may not necessarily suit you. Do not just blindly follow the branded perfumes. It really pays to try different perfumes before you settle for one.

Smell:

Always go for a perfume that contains fresh smells and makes you beautiful and impressive. Have your best friend (preferably female) give his/her views on the particular perfume you are trying. Often, it is the other person who can tell you what goes right with you.

Ingredients and Flavors:

Perfumes can be selected using different ingredients and flavors. They are different categories of perfumes such as woody perfume, fruit perfume, floral perfume, oceanic perfume, greens perfume and oriental perfume. Usually, each of these fragrances is suitable for a male or female depending on their personal preference. However, you can always go for one that top suits your personality and life-style.

Climate and Season:

While choosing a perfume, one should consider the climate and season. What goes best in the winter may not be even good enough in the summer. Hence, it is extremely important to choose the perfume that does justice to the climate and to your skin.

Moreover, perfumes should be selected as per the occasions and festivals too. For example, a particular perfume may be just perfect for a birthday party you are attending, but when it comes to a boardroom meeting you have prefer a different one.

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Posted in Beauty · February 9th, 2010 · Comments (0)

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